The western part of the Sonoma Coast provides miles of rugged coastline, mountainous terrain, and a long, cool growing season. These conditions are perfect for producing the flavorful, high acid, and moderate alcohol wines that I love. Today I had the opportunity to taste a vast selection of wines from this area at the West of West wine festival, an event sponsored by the West Sonoma Coast Vintners. This group is an association of producers, many of them small, family-owned producers, that farm and craft wines from this difficult yet rewarding region.
Today’s event was focused on the West Sonoma Coast, an area which is sometimes called the “true Sonoma Coast” because of its unique terroir. Wines from this area are currently labeled under the large Sonoma Coast AVA, but a West Sonoma Coast AVA is under consideration. During the trade tasting, I tasted a Rose, a dozen Chardonnays, two dozen Pinot Noirs, several Syrahs and a Pinotage. Overall, I was impressed by the intense fruit flavors, judicious use of oak, and the bright acidity that were present in so many of the wines. In West Sonoma Coast, the cool climate allows fruit to develop slowly and benefit from a long growing season. Alcohol levels are moderate since sugars don’t develop as quickly or run as high as they would in a warmer, sunnier region.
In addition to tasting some wines from a few of my favorite Sonoma Coast producers, I discovered several new wineries that I’m excited to follow.
Old Favorites:
Visiting Littorai Wines many years ago was an eye-opening experience. Ted Lemon farms Littorai according to the precepts of biodynamics. What’s that? Biodynamic principles are based on the work of Dr. Rudolf Steiner and offer a holistic approach that strives to create a balanced ecosystem. Vineyards are treated organically, but it’s so much more than “just” organic. If you are interested in learning more about biodynamic farming, visit the Littorai website or www.biodynamics.com. It was a treat to see Ted pouring Littorai Chardonnay and Pinot Noir at the Dallas event. Littorai is distributed in Dallas, and you will often see it on retailers’ shelves and on restaurant wine lists. www.littorai.com
Freeman Winery is another West Sonoma Coast winery that I’ve visited. Ken Freeman was at the event and proudly poured several Sonoma Coast Pinot Noirs that Freeman produces. My favorite is the Akiko’s Cuvee, a cuvee (blended wine) from several Pinot Noir vineyards. Freeman is a gorgeous place to taste if you find yourself in Sonoma. Freeman is distributed in Dallas, and you will often see it on retailers’ shelves and on restaurant wine lists. www.freemanwinery.com
New Discoveries:
Ernest Vineyards’ proprietor and COO, Erin Brooks, was on hand to share the story of the brand she co-owns with her husband Todd Gottula. In addition to her mouth-watering Pinot Noirs, Erin’s Chardonnay, made with the Rued Z clone, was uniquely delicious. It was a textural delight, featuring exotic tropical fruit notes and bright acidity to match the prominent fruit. I could have talked to Erin all day about her new custom crush facility (Grand Cru Custom Crush) in Windsor and the importance of smaller producers banding together to promote their wines. www.ernestvineyards.com
Peay Vineyards
I’ve heard of Peay Vineyards for years, but this was my first opportunity to taste the wines. Wow! The two estate Pinot Noirs that co-owner Andy Peay poured were my favorite Pinot Noirs of the day. A read through the Peay Vineyards website showed that I’m not the only one who likes these wines. Peay Vineyards was the San Francisco Chronicle’s Winery of the Year in 2009. In addition to the Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Syrah that were available at today’s tasting, Peay also makes Rhone-style wines that I’m anxious to try. I’ll also be on the lookout for Cep Vineyards wines, Peay Vineyards’ lower-priced label. www.peayvineyards.com
Check out West Sonoma Coast Vintners to get a full listing of producers in the trade group and join the mailing list for the next tasting event near you. Cheers!
