I love wines with a compelling story. Tell me the story of the people who grow the grapes, the family that has worked the land for generations. Or perhaps the winemaking is the story. Help me understand why an obscure grape variety is included in a blended wine. What does it contribute? What I learn about a wine, a place, and a philosophy certainly contributes to my enjoyment.
That’s why the Secret Vines Wine dinner I attended recently at TJ’s Preston-Royal was a delightful surprise. Over the course of the dinner, Secret Vines co-owner Patrick Charpentier regaled us with stories about each of the six wines poured. To showcase the delicious wines, TJ’s paired beautiful dishes that complemented each wine. More about the pairings shortly.
Patrick Charpentier of Secret Vines Wine
Secret Vines is a boutique wine brand that works with small family owned vineyards in France (and one in Spain), to craft exceptional wines to import into the American market. According to Mr. Charpentier, the families that work these vineyards want nothing more than to make their living growing grapes and making wine and then to pass on the land to their children. They are not interested in finding an importer to take their wines abroad. Understandably, they do not to deal with the challenging issues of labeling, permits, paperwork, and approvals. Enter Mr. Charpentier and his partners. Secret Vine Wines coordinates the import process so that families can to do what they do best – grow the grapes that make these special wines. They contribute the great stories, too.
From the Secret Vines website:
The mission of Secret Vines is to take you on a journey off the beaten path, and present you hidden jewels: extraordinary wines, little known yet approachable. They may come from a small region, the revival of an old varietal, a forgotten blend, or the perfect fit between the varietals and the terroir, but first and foremost they are the product of the hard work and deep knowledge of men and women, and their passion for their vines.
The Secret Vine Wines are relatively new to the Dallas market. The brand started in 2016 with a Tempranillo from Ribera del Duero, Spain and a Heritage Red Blend from Minervois, France. In the second year of production, Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, Rosé, Crémant de Limoux, and Tempranillo were added. The grapes are grown sustainably, and the Chenin Blanc is grown organically.
2015 AOC Crémant de Limoux Rose
This sparkler is made in the Methode Traditionnelle, meaning it has been hand-crafted in the same manner as Champagne. Bright strawberry and white flower aromas. A crisp finish makes this a perfect aperitif. Primarily Chenin Blanc and Chardonnay blended with no more than 40% Pinot Noir and Mauzac. The Mauzac in the blend is a requirement for labeling as AOC Crémant de Limoux Rose. It is best known as the primary grape in blanquette de Limoux, the pre-cursor to Champagne.
This wine has been made by female winemakers for 6 generations.
Ahi Tuna paired with Secret Vines Wine’s Rose´
2016 Rosé de Provence
This is a true rosé with more complexity than is typical. Mr. Charpentier stated that it is not “pink water” and not just a “summer wine.” This rosé can stand alone with intoxicating aromas of fresh melon, citrus, and herbs de Provence. The blend consists of Grenache, Cinsault, and Syrah with just 5% Carignan.
Food Pairing: Rogorashi Seared Ahi Tuna with Radish Salad and Yuzu Crema
The food pairing was spot on. Next time I dine at TJ’s, I am going to request a plate of these well-seasoned seared Ahi tuna bites. Divine!
Jon Alexis of TJ’s Seafood
2016 Chenin Blanc – IGP Val de Loire
The Secret Vines Chenin Blanc was the wine of the night for me. Unlike sweeter styles of Chenin Blanc, this wine had just a touch (6g/L) of residual sugar. Because of the coastal vineyard site, this organic wine carries a minerality and freshness that reveals its ocean influence. Stone fruit and pears mixed with salinity. A good Chenin Blanc can be as rewarding as a high quality white Burgundy.
Food Pairing: Coconut Curry Parsnip & Celery Root Soup
TJ’s has a reputation for making excellent soup, and this masterpiece was no exception. Like a well-balanced wine, this dish was lightly spicy and perfectly creamy. Attendees have already requested that this soup be a part of TJ’s permanent menu.
2017 Sauvignon Blanc AOC – St-Bris
Sauvignon blanc from Burgundy? Yes indeed. St-Bris is an appellation near Chablis in northern France. It is the only appellation in Burgundy that makes wine from the Sauvignon blanc grape. While the wine does display some Sauvignon blanc characteristics including notable acidity, its fruit and floral characteristics bring balance to the wine. According to Mr. Charpentier, aging this wine for two years will allow it to fully develop and shine.
Pairing: Cilantro & Pickled Shrimp Escabeche
The bright but balanced wine tamed the sky-high acidity in this pickled dish. The pink picked shrimp made a beautiful presentation. Cilantro can be difficult
2013 The Original Malbec
Why is this Malbec considered original? In fact, it is made in the Cahors region of France, known as the birthplace of Malbec. Sometimes known as “the black wine of Cahors,” other Malbecs from Cahors can be inky black and require many years of aging to tame the enormous tannins. Secret Vines’ Malbec is in a completely different style. It is made from grapes grown on 30-60 year old vines. While the yield from these vines is low, the fruit is very concentrated and well developed. The grapes are picked early in the harvest season, before sugars in the grapes get too high. Therefore, the alcohol weighs in at a modest 12.5%. And while most Cahors Malbecs are aged in oak, Secret Vines Malbec is fermented and aged in concrete tanks.
Food Pairing: Fundy Salmon, Gooseberry, Black Garlic, Heirloom Tomatoes
Perfectly cooked salmon is a given at TJ’s. The “extra” in this course was the way the black garlic paste set off the culinary fireworks of this dish. I am fully on the black garlic bandwagon and have been pricing garlic fermenters in hopes of recreating this magic. The black garlic paste brings a deeply complex, almost sweet and savory balsamic vinegar element to the plate. Truly, it’s that good. The gooseberry was like a cherry on top. And yes, according to Jon Alexis, owner of TJ’s, you can drink a red wine with fish! There are a number of lighter bodied red wines that pair perfectly. This Malbec is certainly one.
Tenderloin + Heritage Red Blend
2015 Heritage Red Blend
Old vines produce the complex, spicy flavors in the Heritage Red Blend. The winemaker blends Syrah, Grenache, and Carignan to produce a solid and powerful wine. Tannins are smooth, and the wine ages in concrete, not oak. Like other Secret Vines wines, grapes are picked early, and the resulting alcohol is a reasonable 13%.
Food Pairing: Ancho & Espresso Beef Tenderloin, Peach & Fennel Relish
The ancho and espresso rub was calling out for a bolder red. The Heritage Red Blend provided the concentrated fruit and structure that the beef course required. Stewed fruit, tobacco, and leather aromas from the wine met their match in the flavorful, well seasoned tenderloin. A sweet and tart Key lime pie followed the tenderloin dish.
Secret Vines Wines are available in five states, and 10,000 cases are imported. Redoux Wines is the distributor. You may find these wines on the shelves at WineTastic, Central Market, Sip and Savor, and Mercy Wine Bar. Additional retail locations are in the works. Amazingly, the wines retail for $20-$30. These wines are definitely worth finding and will over deliver at that price.
Cheers to Patrick Charpentier, the great folks at TJ’s, and Redoux Wines.
The secret is out on Secret Vines Wines!
Disclosure: I was provided a complimentary ticket to the event for press purposes. All opinions are my own.
